Bunnahabhain Toiteach A Dhà: Islay Smoke with a Softer Side

There is something deliciously contrary about Bunnahabhain Toiteach A Dhà. Bunnahabhain is, after all, better known for its unpeated Islay single malt, yet here thedistillery turns up the smoke and lets peat, sherry and oak collide in the glass.

The result is a whisky with plenty of Islay character, but without simply reaching for the peat hammer.

Bunnahabhain Distillery has been making whisky on the northeastern coast of Islay since 1881, with production beginning in 1883. The name Bunnahabhain refers to the “mouth of the river”, and the distillery sits in a spectacularly remote position on the Sound of Islay.

Photo: Reading Tom, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

So, what exactly is Toiteach A Dhà?

The name is Gaelic for “Smoky Two”, and the whisky follows the original Bunnahabhain Toiteach. It is a non-age-statement single malt, bottled at a pleasingly robust 46.3% ABV. Importantly for whisky traditionalists, Bunnahabhain states that it is non-chill filtered and naturally coloured.

The recipe is where things get particularly interesting. Toiteach A Dhà uses peated maltand a combination of ex-bourbon and sherry casks, with the distillery specifically highlighting the increased influence of sherry compared with the earlier Toiteach. The official tasting notes point towards peat, sherry, rich oak and pepper, with sweet Oloroso sherry making itself known on the palate.

Independent tasting notes broadly back that up, although individual impressions naturally vary. WhiskyNotes, for example, found dry smoke, citrus, pepper, oak, orange and walnut, while Whisky Advocate highlighted smoke and brine alongside red fruit, caramel, nutmeg and cloves.

And that is precisely what makes this dram fun.

Photo: Eberhard Kaiser, CC BY-SA 2.5, via Wikimedia Commons.

Smoke first, but not smoke alone

On the nose, expect peat smoke and char, but don't stop there. Give the glass a littletime and there are sweeter and more savoury layers lurking underneath: sherry, citrus, oak spice and hints of fruit.

The palate turns up the volume. There's that warming peatiness, followed by sweet Oloroso influence, pepper and oak. Independent reviews have also found flavoursranging from orange and chocolate to ginger, walnuts and even a gentle salty coastal character.

It's worth stressing that these are tasting impressions rather than ingredients beingliterally added to the whisky. That's part of the fun of whisky tasting: the same dram cansend different drinkers down entirely different flavour trails.

The finish is robust and lingering, with the official notes promising considerable length. Independent reviewers have variously described earthy smoke, citrus, pepper, oak andcoffee-like notes as it tails away.

A rather unusual Bunnahabhain

The real appeal of Toiteach A Dhà is the contrast.

Bunnahabhain's identity has historically centred on a robust but generally unpeated Islay spirit, so a smoky expression from the distillery has always been something of a detour from the house norm. The distillery itself describes Toiteach A Dhà as a peatedmalt whisky created with a touch of smoke and a greater sherry influence.

That gives it an intriguing middle ground. It isn't trying to erase the distillery's character beneath an avalanche of peat; instead, the smoke sits alongside fruit, oak, spice andsherry.

And at 46.3%, there's enough weight behind it to make those flavours feel properly substantial.

The verdict from the glass

Toiteach A Dhà is the sort of whisky that makes you reconsider what you think you know about a distillery.

There's smoke, certainly. There's peat and coastal character. But alongside them comeOloroso sweetness, pepper, oak and fruit, producing a dram with considerably moregoing on than the word “peated” might suggest.

Pour it neat first. Let it breathe. Then, if you're curious, add a few drops of water and seewhere the balance moves. This is a whisky that rewards paying attention rather than simply knocking back the dram.

The essentials:
Whisky: Bunnahabhain Toiteach A Dhà
Style: Islay single malt Scotch whisky
ABV: 46.3%
Age: No age statement
Casks: Bourbon and sherry
Filtration: Non-chill filtered
Colour: Natural
Character: Peated, smoky, sherried, peppery and oaky